Ash Meadows NWR – 10/29/2015 Trip Notes

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This page last updated on 04/13/2017

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Visitor Center (Fig. 01) Description: Opened in February of 2015, this brand new $10 million facility offers visitors to Ash Meadows a chance to discover all the wildlife and wonder of the largest remaining oasis in the Mojave Desert.  On average, up to as many as 75,000 tourists come to Ash Meadows every year for a glimpse of the pupfish.. A two-story facade of rust-covered cortene marks front (Fig. 02) and back entrances near the center of the building (Fig. 03). The rest is encased in double-walled steel-and-brick to help keep 11,000 square-feet of exhibit, office and bookstore space cool in the summer and warm in the winter. A new boardwalk (Figs. 04-06) added as part of the center’s construction helps guide visitors from the back of the building toward Crystal Spring (Fig. 07) and other ancient water formations that support the area’s fragile habitat. The Refuge is open daily from sunrise to sunset. The refuge visitor center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Admission is free.

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Wildlife Refuge Description: Ash Meadows encompasses 23,000 acres with more than 30 aquifer-fed springs that pump more than 10,000 gallons per minute, making the refuge one of the most water-rich resources in Nevada. The refuge is home to at least 26 endemic plant and animal species, the highest concentration of native species in the continental United States that can only be found here. Ash Meadows is a biodiversity hot-spot located right next to Death Valley National Park, one of the hottest and driest places on Earth! It is also home to Fourteen of those species are classified as endangered, having narrowly averted the threat of extinction at the hands of peat harvesters, cotton farmers, ranchers or housing developers. Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge is a haven for wildlife, especially rare fish, plants, snails, and insects. Water bubbles up from underground into clear spring pools as silvery blue and grayish green pupfish dart between swaying strands of algae. Pebbled streams gurgle from small hillside springs, sheltering tiny beetles and snails. The water is warm, the air moist, in contrast to the surrounding Mojave Desert. There are coyotes, black-tailed jackrabbits, desert cottontails, and white-tailed antelope squirrel. Desert bighorn sheep are occasionally observed at Point of Rocks and Devil's Hole. The black-tailed jackrabbit was my only sighting on today's visit ... Black-tailed Jackrabbit. Reptiles and amphibians are most visible during the spring and fall. Five amphibians and 20 reptiles are known to occur on the refuge. Toads are most visible right after spring and summer rains, when they become very active feeding and breeding. Woodhouse toads are the most common species observed on the refuge. Look for large chuckwalla lizards on the rocky slopes near Devil's Hole and Point of Rocks during the early spring. Snakes are also seen more often during the spring and early fall and become more nocturnal during the heat of mid-summer. Coachwhip and gopher snakes are two of the more common snakes seen at Ash Meadows.Over 239 different species of birds have been recorded on the refuge. Migration periods are best for greatest diversity and numbers. Spring migration usually occurs during April and May, and fall migration from mid-August through September. During the winter, marshes and reservoirs support the largest variety of water birds. Mesquite and ash tree groves at Refuge Headquarters and Point of Rocks harbor resident and migratory birds year-round, including typical Southwestern species such as crissal thrasher, verdin, phainopepla, and Lucy's warbler. A refuge bird list is available at the visitor center.

10/29/2015 Trip Notes: This was my second visit to the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge with the rock-hounds from Henderson’s Heritage Park Senior Center. Upon our arrival we drove first to the new Visitor Center (Figs. 02 & 03).  Inside we first watched a movie (Fig. 08) on the history of the Ash Meadows National Wildlife Range. After the movie we toured the many displays, inter-active exhibits, dioramas, and the small gift shop (Fig. 09). We were all amazed at how well everything had been done. We then learned that the previous week they had experienced the worst rain storm since the wildlife range was created, more than 2 inches of rain, almost as much as their yearly rainfall in one storm. It flooded the entire area and washed out many of its roads. Everything north of the visitor center including the road to the Crystal Reservoir were all closed. When we all took the one mile boardwalk out to the Crystal Spring (Fig. 07 above). While the majority of the group visited the Devil's Hole site, hope of the Pupfish, Blake and I hike out to the Crystal Reservoir (Fig. 10). Next we all drove to the Point of Rocks Spring (Fig. 11). where we walked the boardwalk and had lunch before heading home. Off to the right of the parking area (Fig. 12) was one of the largest ash trees I have ever seen. It was massive. I cant even imagine how old it was. Even though our visit was hampered by the road wash outs, and that heavy winds impacted out hiking, we still have an enjoyable morning.

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Ash Meadows NWR – 11/06/2014 Trip Notes

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Geologic History of the Area: Though it seems hard to envision, thousands of years ago this area was full of large lakes and river systems that were all connected to each other. However, as the climate became hotter, the lakes and rivers began drying up, leaving only isolated springs and small pools and rivers. Most of the water you see bubbling up from these springs today, many at a rate of 2,800 gallons per minute, is the result of rain and snow melt that has traveled from the Spring Mountains, located many miles to the east. The water has been slowly collecting in limestone bedrock for thousands of years, creating deep underground aquifers (Fig. 02). When it runs into underground fault lines it is forced to the surface, creating a natural spring. Warmed by the earth’s geothermal energy, it comes out year-round at a temperature of around 87-degrees. As temperatures continued to rise over thousands of years, these small desert wetlands caused endemic species (specifically the pupfish) to rapidly evolve in order to adapt to the harsh climatic conditions. In the summer months, much of this fish’s habitat dries up as daytime temperatures can reach 120 degrees Fahrenheit, yet it still thrives, as it has for thousands of years. Known as the Ash Meadows Amargosa pupfish, these fish can live in waters up to 92 degrees and can survive in water that is only a half-inch deep.

11/06/2014 Trip Notes: Even though I had been here on a previous visit, this was the first time that the rock-hounds from the Heritage Park Senior Center has made this a destination. We made our first stop at the Point of Rocks Springs, along the eastern most side of the valley – Note(1). Next we drove out to Devil’s Hole – Note (2). Because you cannot hike down into this area due to the high protective fencing that surrounds it, I found this to be kind of a uneventful stop. Before heading to Crystal Springs, we stopped at the Crystal Reservoir – Note (3), the largest body of water on the refuge. With time running out for our long journey home, we made our last stop of the day at the Refuge Headquarters and Visitor Center next to the Crystal Springs Boardwalk – Note (4). After walking the boardwalk we decided to have lunch in the picnic area next to the visitor center before starting the long ride home. Even though I think that early spring is the best time to visit here - more flowers and birds - today still made for a nice outing.

Note (1) - Point of Rocks Springs: Set almost up against the mountains that bound the valley to the east (Fig. 03), its long stream supports a large variety of grasses and vegetation as it runs southward. A meandering 3/4 mile boardwalk follows a relatively long outflow stream that provides a tranquil walk broken only by the sounds of running water and some fluttering birds. Located near the far end of the boardwalk, its vividly colored spring was provided opportunities to view the rare Ash Meadows Amargosa Pupfish (Fig. 04). At the top of the Point of Rocks Boardwalk at the very end of this hike is an amphitheater with telescopes for viewing (Fig. 05). If the timing is right, they give visitors a chance to get a closer look at bighorn sheep and other refuge wildlife.

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Note (2) - Devil’s Hole: Devil's Hole is a limestone cave located at the base of the mountains on the east-central boarder of the refuge. It is home to the Devil's Hole Pupfish, found nowhere else on earth (Fig. 08). Its spring pool is located approximately 50 feet below the ground surface (Fig. 07) and has a temperature of 93-degrees (F). It descends more than 450 feet into a myriad of mostly unexplored chasms that make up a large underground aquifer. In an effort to protect people and the endangered pupfish surviving therein, Devil's Hole is surrounded by a high steel fence (Fig. 06) to prevent public access. In 1952 President Truman declared Devils Hole, and the rare Devils Hole pupfish, part of Death Valley National Monument. In 1963 the Devils Hole pupfish were officially listed as endangered and was on the very first official listing of endangered species.

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Note (3) - Crystal Reservoir: This large clear body of water has a low earthen dam (Fig. 09) along its western and southern sides. This dam makes for a good, elevated place to walk and look for birds on the water and in the thickets below the dam, although we didn’t see hardly any on today’s visit. Most of our group walked the reservoir’s eastern shoreline (Fig. 10) while I decided to walk along its northern edge (Fig. 11). The view in (Fig. 11) is looking toward the southern end of the reservoir. There are cattails and bulrushes, and a few other shrubs here and there on the northern end of the lake where the waters from Crystal Spring flow into the reservoir.

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Note (4) – Crystal Spring Boardwalk: Crystal Spring is a  warm-water pool of clear, blue-green water, maybe 9-10 feet deep and 25 feet across, with a white sandy floor and some bright green algae (Fig. 12). The outflow stream from the spring runs along the .4 mile Crystal Spring boardwalk that leads from the refuge office to the spring through fairly open, fairly flat desert landscape (Fig. 13). The stream, running along the boardwalk is surrounded by a few trees, lots of shrubs, and grapevines as it goes through an open area with scattered screwbean mesquite thickets, various species of desert shrub, and a carpet of saltgrass. The bare areas are covered with a crust of salt, which almost looks like a blanket of snow. Crystal Spring gets its name from the ‘crystal’ clear water that it omits. There is a viewing platform at the spring (Fig. 14) allowing one to take the time to enjoy its beauty and watch the waters as they flow out of the spring (Fig. 15). The changing colors of the trees and shrubs (Figs. 16 & 17) surrounding the spring were a stark contrast to the drab, barren desert that surrounds this area. While walking the boardwalk as it followed the outflow stream we spotted dozens of dragonflies, some crawfish, and a few speckled dance. This outflow runs across the desert down to a point where it feeds into the Crystal Reservoir.

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Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge - Summary Page

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10/29/2015 Trip Notes: This is my second visit to Ash Meadows with the rock-hounds from Henderson’s Heritage Park Senior Center. This was the first time we were able to visit their new Visitor Center. Upon our visit to the visitor center we learned that they experienced the worst rain storm in the existence, more than 2 inches of rain that flooded the entire area and wash out many of its roads. Everything north of the visitor center (Fig. 02), including the road to the Crystal Reservoir were all closed. Today we were restricted to Crystal Spring Boardwalk, behind the visited center, and Devil’s Hole and the Point of Rocks Springs. Click here for pictures and information on today’s visit … Ash Meadows NWR - 10/29/2015 Trip Notes. 11/06/2014 Trip Notes: Even though I visited this place back in August of 2012, this is the first time that the rock-hounds from the Heritage Park Senior Center has made this a destination. During today’s visit, we made stops at the Point of Rocks Springs, Devil’s Hole, Crystal Reservoir, and Crystal Springs Boardwalk adjacent to the Refuge’s headquarters and visitor center. Click here for more info on Ash Meadows and pictures and information on today’s visit … Ash Meadows NWR - 11/06/2014 Trip Notes.

06/08/2012 Trip Notes: Even though this refuge has more than 30 natural springs, there are seven major springs and reservoirs (Fig. 02) worthy of taking the time to view. Having entered from its southern entrance (Fig. 01),  we slowly worked our way up to the refuge headquarters and the Crystal Spring Boardwalk, making our first stop at Point of Rocks Springs along the way. Below are pictures and summaries for each of our stops and hikes we made during this visit.
                               

Point of Rocks Springs: The Point of Rocks springs area is the eastern most set of springs in the valley, almost up against the mountains that bound the valley to the east. Smaller than Crystal Spring, its long stream supports a large variety of grasses and vegetation as it runs southward.  A meandering 3/4 mile boardwalk follows a relatively long outflow stream that provides some excellent ‘birding’ opportunities. The color of the spring itself is outstanding. We felt this was the best spring as both the spring and its outflow streams were filled with the rare Ash Meadows Amargosa Pupfish. Besides seeing dozens of birds, we spotted two baby desert cottontails and a  Western Zebra Tailed Lizard (Callisaurus draconoides rhodostictus). (Click to learn more)
                                           

                       

                                           
                             
                                         


Crystal Spring:  Crystal Spring is a  warm-water pool of clear, blue-green water, maybe 9-10 feet deep and 25 feet across, with various ducks and other birds in residence. It has a white sandy floor and some bright green algae and has an outflow stream that runs along the .4 mile Crystal Spring boardwalk that leads from the refuge office to the spring through fairly open, fairly flat desert landscape. It is surrounded by a few trees, lots of shrubs, and grapevines. The winding outflow stream runs along the boardwalk and through an open area with scattered screwbean mesquite thickets, various species of desert shrub, and a carpet of saltgrass. The bare areas are covered with a crust of salt, which almost looks like a blanket of snow. Crystal Spring gets its name from the ‘crystal’ clear water that it omits. There are many surrounding wetland – areas where water seeps to the surface but does not flow out like a spring, that are filled with bushes, grass, reeds, and an occasional tree that suck water up as fast as it comes to the surface. While walking the boardwalk as it followed the outflow stream we spotted dozens of dragonflies, some crawfish, and a few speckled dance.
                                             

                                 
                                            



Longstreet Cabin. Completed in 2005, the Longstreet Cabin, a reconstructed historic stone structure, was originally built by Jack Longstreet, one of the legendary gunslingers of the early West. He arrived in Nevada in the 1880's seeking a fresh start from a shadowy past. Having killed many men, his skill with a gun gave him a reputation as a dangerous man. Because trouble seemed to follow him, he found it necessary to live in remote places to avoid his enemies. Circa 1895 he built his stone cabin into the side of a spring mound, ensuring access to fresh water if he ever had to barricade himself inside. Though his residence at Ash Meadows was short-lived, he continued to visit his cabin until he finally sold the property in 1906. Longstreet epitomized the mythical Western frontiersman: self-reliant, strong-willed, and fair-minded. Speaking with a southern drawl, he championed the rights of the Southern Paiute – with whom he often lived-- and protected mine workers during disputes. At the time of his death in 1928 he was revered as a gruff but kind old man with many stories of his gunslinger days.
                      

Longstreet Spring. Situated directly in front of the Longstreet Cabin, the Longstreet Spring emerges into a deep, yet very clear, 40-foot-diameter spring pool. It is surrounded by mesquite and ash trees, plus lots of shrubs, sedges, and forbs. Away from the edge of the spring, the vegetation quickly changes to mesquite thickets with saltgrass, and then dry desert saltbush. There is a very strong outflow stream that flows west along a cattail-filled ditch whose noise makes it hard to hear the birds. This lush area is another good birding location. We didn’t observe any fish at this location.
                                 



Rogers Spring. Rogers spring is located in a broad ravine near the base of some low hills. This was the last spring we visited today and though it was the smallest spring we visited, it was certainly the deepest. The spring emerges into a very deep spring pool that is about 25 feet in diameter. It is surrounded by salt grass, mesquite, saltcedar, and ash trees, plus lots of shrubs, sedges, and forbs. At the springs outflow the vegetation quickly changes to mesquite thickets, and then dry desert saltbush. As with almost all of the springs here, there is a outflow that runs west along a cattail-filled ditch. Similar to the Longstreet Spring, the noise from the strong outflow makes it hard to hear the birds. This lush area is another good birding location, however we did not observe any fish at this location.


Crystal Reservoir and the Horseshoe and Lower Crystal Marshes: On our way out, we made our last stop of the day at the Crystal Reservoir, the largest body of water on the refuge. Because it is an impoundment with a dam, it gets lots of maintenance and is the only place where swimming is allowed. This remarkably clear reservoir is held behind a low earthen dam along the western and southern sides. This dam is a good, elevated place to walk and watch birds on the water and in the thickets below the dam. There are cattails and bulrushes on the northwestern and southeastern ends of the lake, and a few other shrubs here and there, but most of the shoreline is clear and the views of the lake are unobstructed. This is normally a great place to view larger birds and waterfowl, however, because it had become quite windy, we only got to observe a few ducks. Two places we didn’t have time to visit were Horseshoe Marsh and Lower Crystal Marsh, both small ponds with relatively large marshland areas, located  below the dam on its western side.
                                   

                               


This 23,000 acre refuge is huge. Once inside, we traveled more than 30 miles reaching the areas that we visited, and even though there is a lot of plain old dry desert between them, most are certainly worth the drive.  After all this, there were still five locations that we failed to visit; Devils Hole, Jackrabbit Spring, Fairbanks Spring, Peterson Reservoir, and the two marshland areas below the Crystal Reservoir. Oh well, there is always a next time....